Vintage Slot Racing Newsletter
Greg Holland, Ye Olde Editor
Issue 108    March 2003

In This Issue:

GE Slot Motor

Updated Magazine Cover Galleries

VSRN Track Gallery - Part III

Slot Track Date

What's New

Letters to the Editor

From The Editor

Printable Version of this Issue (726 Kb)

Printable Version Of the Cover Galleries
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From The Editor

Hi Gang - I'm baaaack! We now have our own website: www.vsrnonline.com

Please Note Our New e-mail address: greg@vsrnonline.com

So here's a small issue with some things that I've collected over that past year.

The Model Car & Track, Model Car & Racing and Model Cars Illustrated Cover Galleries are now complete.
The AutoWorld and Model Car Science Cover Galleries have been updated significantly.

In addition, I've compiled a MAGS_CD with much higher resolution scans of the Cover Galleries,
that also include all 4 covers and the table of contents of each issue of MC&T, MCS (7 issues still missing),
Car Model, and Model Car & Racing.

There are scans of selected articles, such as the 12 part, "Building The Paramount Ranch Circuit" article by Robert Schleicher
from Car Model. There is a bunch of other material that is not on the Web Site.

In fact, the CD is nearly full. If you like to obtain a copy, check www.professormotor.com
And yes, you can use your credit card!

Thanks to Bob Hardin for some AutoWorld Catalog cover scans that help fill in some of the gaps on the CD.
Also thanks to Gart Stelter for the loan of the last 2 Model Car & Racing issues I needed.
Don Siegel was responsible for all of the MCI scans we needed. Thanks guys!

By the time you read this, I should also have another CD ready:  Volumes 1 & 2 of Model Car & Track. Every page is scanned. Each issue has a hyperlinked Table of Contents. In addition, there is an extensive hyperlinked cross reference including ads, that allows you to search by brand, by author and much much more.  Volumes 3, 4 & 5 of MC&T are next - they should be done in 2003.
Again check with www.professormotor.com for availability,
or send an e-mail to greg@vsrnonline.com, and I'll notify you when
they are ready.

I'm looking to borrow the following publications to scan for the MAGS_CD:
Strombecker Inside Track V1 No. 6 (Nov/Dec 65), V2 No.1 (Jan/Feb 66), V2 No. 2 (Mar/Apr 66), V2 No. 5(Sept/Oct 66),
and any Inside Track magazines from 1967: V1 No.1 (Spring Edition 1967), V1 No.2 (Fall Edition 1967) and the phantom
3rd issue of 1967, which I have no evidence was ever published.

In addition, I'm looking for the following AutoWorld Catalogs:
#1 (1958), #2 (1959), #3 (1960), #8 (1965), #26 (1974 & 1/2)

Good scans are fine, or if you'll let me borrow them, I'll scan & return.
If you are the first to help me out with any of these, I'll trade you for a copy of the CD.  Thanks.

As always, your comments and suggestions are welcome - I  do appreciate the feedback!
You can contact us at: greg@vsrnonline.com

Keep It In The Slot !!!

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Letters To The Editor

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VSRN-

You are my last hope. Do you know where I can find info on rewinding?
Specifically, the GE/Dynamic motor but any info would be a help like
wire size, how many turns,etc.

Let me give you the whole sordid story.About a year ago I became
fascinated with the hi-power motors of yesteryear.
The GE always seemed like a mystery to me , so I managed to aquire
first a used one and then a new (NOS) one. They both screamed!

So, being the anal type another comes up for sale on Ebay,
but this time at a premium price.

I put it away untested for a couple of months before taking it
out and noticing that while the first two motors are stamped 3ADM4 on the
case, this one says 3ADM. I test the motor on a power supply and it is
absolutely the slowest motor I have ever tested at less than a thousand RPM.

Now to add to this whole strange affair I bought a lot of 7 motors of what I thought
were  the original 3ADM4 motors. When I receive THESE ,I find they too are
stamped 3ADM instead of 3ADM4.You guessed it. Slower than molasses! In
utter frustration I took one apart and it looks like the arm has about a
jillion turns of number 40 gauge (actually my guess is about 33 guage).

Calls and email to GE were met with a "DUH" when I asked for any and all info on these
motors, likewise the Schenectady electrical museum in New York.So now I'm
stuck with 7 or possibly 8 lovely paperweights unless I can rewind them
to spec or better.By the way, the seven motor lot was a new lot of motors
with a shipping insert marked with a shipping date of  7-19-68 and says it
contains 3ADM5 motors even though the motors are marked 3ADM.
If you want one first hand to look at ( I realize at this point this letter may already
be in the delete file) I would be glad to send you one, no strings
attached. It would have been nice if GE could have shed some light on this for me but
evidently their files are worse than mine, or maybe they just don't give a damn.

Hope you can help.Thanks!
Gary Stelter       garystelter@attbi.com

> Gary-
>
> I'm guessing that the motors you bought were "loose" and not packaged in
> the GE slot motor box.
>
> There was commentary at the time, that the slot motor was also used in an
> electric toothbrush. That seemed crazy, assuming the same 27 wire wind as
> the slot motor. But with a different, milder wind, it probably makes
sense.
>
> I'll try to dig through my piles today to see what I can find.....

Greg-

Toothbrush! Makes sense now.These motors are double shafted with a flattened
spot at each end.Also, the cooling holes in the case are sealed, probably
against water. They run at just the right speed for operating and older
electric toothbrush too. Mr. Holland, you are a genius and I am an idiot for
buying them. Live and learn, I guess. Know anyone who races toothbrushes?
Yikes!..............Gary Stelter

Gary-
I'm still looking for the magazine articles that specifies the winds.
If I recall correctly, it was something like 40 of 27ga stock, and 25 or 30 turns of 26ga for the factory rewind.

What I was afraid of was that your motors would not have the "right stuff" in them -
like a Kirkwood commutator, shunted brushes and super magnets that were found in the Dynamic version.

Even so, you might try dewinding them to see if you can perk them up a bit. If you can take a resistance measurement of the armature you have out of the can, do that first. Then peel off 10 turns, and try it again. Maybe you'll get it up to 1001 rpm! Take another resistance measurement. See if there is any "distress" when you run the motor - excessive heat, noise, smell, etc. Keep repeating the dewind process, until it's obvious you went too far.... That will be about all she wrote!

(ED NOTE: Here's more proof, that everything you see on eBay is not necessarily a bargain!
Check out the Feature Article in this issue on GE Motors.)
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Greg,
  I found an article on the internet that you wrote about Strombecker race tracks.  I have an old Strombecker 2-slot race track that was my father's, and I haven't used it for years as the cars are pretty much shot and parts seem to be hard to find.  I'm not even sure what model it is that I have, but I still have some of the instructions info that came with the set.  According to the track layout pictures, it is the 9960 American G.T. racing set.  I still have the original G.T. cars, but they are a little beat up and need some parts.  On the bottom of the track it says: Strombecker Corporation Made in USA. and the track contacts have dimples.  There is some corrosion on the contacts, and I'm not sure how to clean the corrosion off the contacts.  I live in a major city, so I'm sure I can eventually find information and parts, but I wasn't sure where to start.  Any ideas?  I appreciate any input you can provide.  I didn't want to just leave the set sitting in the box like the last 20 years.
  Thanks,
Ron
(ED NOTE: This is typical of many inquiries I get about reviving a long forgotten track.....
Hi Ron-
Thanks for your note.

If the corrosion on the track contacts isn't too severe, I'd try a ScotchBrite scouring pad, available in grocery and hardware stores.
If it's more than a little corroded, you'll need to use something more aggressive, like sandpaper, or crocus cloth.
A chemical like Naval Jelly might be necessary if it's really bad. Even this didn't work on the track I've been trying to restore,
so I'm going to end up having to use copper tape on top of the track contacts, to essentially replace the original contacts.
If you get to this point, let me know & I'll suggest some things.

As far as parts, a few things that are almost always needed in a case like this are tires, and pickup braid.
Here are a few sources (in alphabetical order) where you probably can get replacement tires and braid that will work fine:

Philippe deLespinay
http://www.electric-dreams.com/elecdrms.htm

EJ's Hobbies, 7017 Cascade Rd., S.E., Grand Rapids, MI, 49546-7304
Ed Sourbeck, owner  phone: (616) 942-0285 fax:(616) 956-8043

Mike Gillett
4021 2nd St. NE
Columbia Heights, MN  55421
763-788-5816 (Noon-10PM)

Andy Smith a.k.a Professor Motor
http://www.professormotor.com

Don't forget to put a light drop of light oil on each end of the motor where the shaft comes out before you run it.
You may need to clean off the motor's commutator - this is easy to do if you have the open frame type motors
where you can see the armature. Some TV Contact Cleaner spray from Radio Shack will help, and a pencil eraser or
Q-Tip will help get the black stuff off.

If your motors are shot, you might want to think about replacing the cars. eBay will give you a place to start looking, and an idea of
prices.

I understand that you'd really like to get the old set going. But there are many new cars of different brands on the market today
that are much better than the old Strombecker cars were. However, you'll need to upgrade your power pack and controllers.
In this case, you might even want to think about getting a whole new set....

Let me know how you make out.

Keep It In The Slot!

Greg Holland
VSRN
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Hi Greg-
Back in the 60's  I was a part of an Explorer post and we provdied ambulance service to that raceway.

Turn one was more a 110' corner cause the they would be coming down the long straight (actually  reverse direction to the drag strip)
and have to brake hard or put it into the dirt bank.

Then when they would come out of last turn they were at the bottom of the hill and climbed about 1/2 mile till they reached the top (which was the point for the turn off lane for the drag strip).  What I recall most was one race with sport cars, Cobras, Vettes, Jags such and the 2 cobras, a 427 and 289 just fed lunch all day to everyone else, And when that big 427 Ford hit it at bottom of hill you could hear him anywhere on the course!

Also I recall turn 8 (half way) where we would park on ambulance and watch the USAC guys round that turn, Watched ole AJ  run a local guy off road cause he wouldn’t get out of the way ! Pushed him right into the dirt.
Paul B
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Slot Track Date

I’m sure everyone took a date to a slot track (at least once anyway!).
Now, from Don Siegel’s amazing magazine collection comes a contest:

Name the magazine that this picture came from. The only hint is that it isn’t one of the major slot magazines.
Send your guess to:  greg@vsrnonline.com    We’re give you the answer the next time.


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

What’s New?

The Monogram 1/32 Cobra Daytona Coupe slot cars I mentioned last time, are supposed to be out shortly.
The Greenwood "Batmobile" Corvettes should follow in a few months,
and the previously unannounced 3rd series of the Corvete Grand Sports will follow near the end of 2003.

I'll keep you posted as additional info becomes available.
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For those of you who enjoy a bit of slot car humor, check out Bob Hardin's web site at  http://www.slotcarthrillart.com
I think you'll really like it! To me, his style is sort of a cross between Big Daddy Roth and the Hawk Weird-O's!
Great Stuff!
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Tell ‘em you saw in at VSRN Online!
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Please e-mail your comments and suggestions to:
greg@vsrnonline.com

 Copyright 2003 Gregory P. Holland / VSRN